Travellers tend to travel down to Puyo in three ways, on a bike, in a tour bus, or on a provincial bus. I’ve done all three but the bus option will always be tainted by the memory of one of the most horrible farts I’ve ever smelt, delivered with stealth just after departing Baños. The culprit remained undetected and it was a great testament to the decorum of the Tungurahuans that they didn’t start a riot.
Presuming you’re not distracted in this way there’s some great scenery to enjoy. All along the 30km to the village of Río Negro there are tunnels and waterfalls. For more information on the waterfalls read the Baños page. It’s best to sit on the right of the bus to see the Rio Pastaza.
After passing Río Negro the valley widens and flattens. You start to get glimpses ahead into the vast sea of green. It’s exciting to imagine just how far (give or take a bit of deforestation) the tree canopy extends into the distance.
At Mera you have to show your passport and as a foreigner, fill in the ledger. That increases the sense that you are heading into the unknown. Beyond that you pass Shell and finally Puyo which is quite sprawling and not pretty, although there are some interesting things to visit.