This is not a great road – definitely don’t drive it at night because you’ll need to keep an eye out for the huge holes in the road. It’s a steady, winding climb through green, rolling hills, with the occasional roadside shack and accompanying kids playing or a cow chewing the cud. You pass a turn-off to a pleasant little village called La Victoria, an agricultural settlement very close to the Peruvian border. There is a little shop at the junction.
The main road continues to climb and then descends dramatically into the drier Río Puyango valley. For Puyango petrified forest you must turn right down a dirt track just before the bridge where there is a military checkpoint (have you passport ready).
From the bridge the road climbs up and up to Alamor and Celica. There’s not much to do but the countryside is nice and there are hotels in both towns.